May 25, 2016
Today I start my adventure to South America… ALONE! Yes, I am traveling ALONE, and no I don’t believe I’m crazy. For the past six months, I have been asked countless times, “What? You are going ALONE? Why? Are you scared? Are you crazy?” No I’m not scared, no I’m not crazy, and I am going ALONE because I CAN. I want to travel the world, experience new cultures, and never have a regret about NOT doing something just because I’m ALONE. I think some people find the word ALONE daunting, terrifying, and LONEly. I on the other hand have embraced it and found that in many cases the word ALONE can also be a synonym for INDEPENDENCE. The independence and allowance to make decisions based on your own individual desire and wants, rather than constantly accommodating others. Being ALONE for the past year has allowed me to discover things about myself that I had forgotten, buried, or simply not known. Being ALONE has also forced me to decipher what it is I truly want; which has at times, left me with more questions than answers. Regardless of the unanswered and unknown, I’m happy to be experiences the feeling of complete INDEPENCENCE.
My first stop: IQUITOS in northern Peru. Iquitos is only accessible by boat or plane and is an access point to the Amazon river. I arrived early on the 26th after a LONG trip from LA to San Salvador to Lima, and finally Iquitos at 8am! So naturally I spent most of the day sleeping (one of my favorite things) at Amazon House; a guesthouse with a family. After waking from my 5 hour “nap,” I decided to venture to downtown Iquitos for an early dinner via tuk-tuk; a motorbike equipped with a seating “cart”. Like Asia, Tuk-Tuks are the most common mode of transportation and are easily accessible, safe, and CHEAP! After a bouncy tuk tuk ride along dirt and paved roads, I ended up at Dawn on the Amazon café which is run by an American and also has free wifi. I met another solo traveler named Melissa and made plans to meet in the morning. The view from Dawn on the Amazon Café is pretty amazing; set right along the Itaya river (which feeds into the Amazon); at sunset I was able to capture a cool shot of a distant rainfall over the river.
After a good night’s sleep and meeting up with Melissa, we explored the southern end of Iquitos where we came upon the floating shantys of Belen and the bustling street markets, where the locals sell their produce and goods. The streets are lined with tuk-tuks, motorbikes, and the occasional car, as well as stray dogs, cats, and hole in the wall shops and restaraunts. After our day of exploring, we decided to book a day tour for the following morning through Dawn of the Amazon Tours, which will take us further into Belen, and also along the amazon and the jungle. Should be exciting! We ended the day and night eating at El Meson, which served local/regional cuisine, and took in some entertainment, consisting of what appeared to be a talent/magic show jam packed with an audience of locals.
Our day tour began with our guide, Geno walking us along the streets of Iquitos and explaining the history of the town, and some interesting tidbits about the surrounding buildings. Next we headed to Belen where we met up with another local guide to take us through the market. What Melissa and I had seen the day before was the tip of the iceburg! The Belen market is 10 blocks long, and consists of an upper and lower section. While there, we tried local fruits, an Amazonian beetle, as well as some adult beverages that were supposed to “loosen” up the ladies. Next we went to lower Belen, which half of the year is covered by the Itaya river; However, when water levels drop, what is left behind is a wide array of trash and pollution. Recently, there has been a movement from locals to push for keeping the river clean. As we cruised through the floating shantys of Belen, it was apparent at how gluttonous Americans have become. Always wanting and needing MORE. In Belen, there are children who have no toys and have the biggest smiles on their faces; they don’t know anything else. After talking to Geno more, we were able to learn that he spent 3 years learning English, and 4 additional years of education to be a guide. We also learning that the Peruvian school system consists of preschool and elementary school. By age 15, they are done with school! Next we headed south down the river where we came upon a jungle shanty; Geno went ahead and talked to the family to be sure they were ok with having visitors, which they were. We were able to spend about 30 min with them, watching and participating in the crushing of black sugar cane, which we were also able to drink; it was very sweet, too sweet for me, but good nonetheless. Before we left they offered us the fermented version; which is essentially moonshine on crack. I took one sip and felt my insides burn! After our moonshine moment, we were back in the boat for lunch under a lovely amazon tree, and then out to the amazon itself where were saw dolphins, including the pink ones (I wasn’t able to get a picture)! But what I found most interesting was how the Itaya river and the Amazon don’t mix; Geno explained there was some kind of difference in the sediment that made it not mix; kinda crazy. At the end of our tour, I asked Geno if he ever planned on moving out of Iquitos, to which he replied, "Why would I move? I have everything I need here... I might move back to the jungle... its quieter there." What he said has stuck with me; here we have a man who is happy living in a town that is extremely poor, lacks hot water in most areas, and does not have the luxuries that we view as essentials, yet he sees no reason to leave. Why are Americans so eager to move? So eager to have more than what is necessary? So unhappy with living a life that meets all their basic needs? I am guilty of all of these things, but it does make you question just how much we need to be "happy". After a dinner of chicken and rice, Melissa and I said our goodbyes and I headed back to amazon house. Next Stop: Cusco!
After waking up with a bad case of food poisoning, which followed me on two flights, I arrived in Cusco. A bright city with perfect weather compared to the humid and sweltering heat of Iquitos. However, there was not a tuk tuk in sight, only cars. I arrived at my hostel, Eco-Packers, which is an eco-friendly eclectic hostel, which also has hot water (score!). I am staying in a female only dorm of 8; almost all of which are from California! Unfortunately, my first day here was spend in bed and the bathroom, and a brief encounter with my guide for my upcoming trek. Luckily, I woke up today feeling much better! I indulged in a hot shower, which was essentially warm water, but it felt so nice! I also met some new dormmates Sera and Caroline, and we headed for a quick bite to eat in the Plaza de Armas (all cities in Peru have this; it is essentially the main square), where we found a cute restaurant that overlooked the square, the view was pretty amazing. Leaving at 0530 for my Lares Trek tomorrow! Should be fun, challenging, and im sure exhausting!
(This blog was supposed to have been posted long ago, however the wifi has been pretty slow. PICTURES TO COME when the wifi picks up a bit!)