The ATM Caves... UnBELIZEable

After our time on the island of Caye Caulker, it was time to head back to Belize City and catch a direct collectivo, which is essentially a shared van, to the jungle of San Ignacio. Again, the boat taxi was anything but easy; a few missing bags and a nearly missed collectivo, and we were finally on the road! We arrived in San Ignacio and were dropped off at a random corner; travel tip: ALWAYS have directions and a screen shot of the streets around your hostel, If I hadn’t had that screen shot, we would have wandered aimlessly before asking for directions.  San Ignacio is a quaint town and generally a jumping point to attractions: day trips to Tikal in Guatemala, Xunantunich in Belize, the ATM caves, and various ruins.  For us, it was a place to relax, catch up on sleep, and get some laundry done.  We walked to the ruins in town, Cahal Pech, which were nice as they were not crowded with tourists, and were nearly empty. On the way home we had a lovely pupperoni join us; we named her Pip, and she was with us for a mere 30 minutes before she realized we had no meat for her… Seeing as how Belize was also a big expense, we had to reel in our budget a bit, which meant: PB&Js, ramen, cereal…back to dorm room basics.  And of course a blind taste test of Coke vs Pepsi for nightly entertainment, which was documented on IG (Coke won).  Fun fact: when you are traveling in a small region, you find that most people are on a similar route; we ran into Jasmine from Germany on the corner, and she joined us later that evening for the Super Bowl! Had our sleep patterns permitted, perhaps we would have rented the canoes and went up the river; but to be honest, we couldn’t seem to wake up early enough to beat the dam opening. Oh well! Laundry in tow, we left the town of San Ignacio and headed to a hostel just outside in Unitedville called, “Lower Dover.”

Lower Dover is a bit off the beaten path and required a local bus and a little bit of a walk, but it was so worth it! The lush green property not only has partially excavated Mayan Ruins, but also a river running through where we took an immediate plunge as we were sweating every last pore.  Come to find out, the owner of Lower Dover is originally from Lancaster, CA, which is pretty much Meghan’s hometown.  Such a small world, and such an interesting woman.  

Madeline bought the property years ago after her husband thought it would be a good investment; now she runs the hostel, and he hosts the yearly archeologists and grad students on the excavations of the Mayan site.  Family style dinners and breakfasts were just what we needed to reset, not to mention a great place to swap stories with fellow travelers. Which led us to Tyler and Mitch, Canadian pilots who love drinking, drinking games, pool, and the Hibiscus wine at Lower Dover.  Apparently the Hibiscus wine has no sulfites which means no hangovers.  A bottle each later, and some shots of vodka, we had a night filled with endless laughter, fun memories, and a few drinking games to bring home with us! Luckily, the wine kept its no-hangover promise, because the next morning we were off to the ATM Caves…

Now, I generally don’t like to do tours because they are expensive, long, and restricting.  But every now and then there are some that are worth the splurge, and the ATM caves is one that is definitely worth the $110. The ATM (Actun Tunichil Muknal) cave is an ancient Mayan site discovered by explorers in the 1980’s, but of course known by the locals for many, many years before. Luckily, our tour guide, Ben Cruise, was one of the first people in the caves when they began exploring them, making him a bit of a local celebrity, and a bit of a crush for us!  After a couple river crossings and a stop to use the “faciliTREES,” we were at the cave entrance. As we swam through the cave, Ben stopped to show us the amazing stalactites, stalagmites, bats, and crystals formed over the years.  It was truly an incredible sight, but the best was yet to come. After about 45 min, we arrived the Mayan site accessed by climbing up a sketchy rock formation. From here we had to take off our shoes, and put on our socks.  We were lead through a Mayan burial site filled with pottery dating back to 750 AD! Some broken, some fully intact with clues to their use: some had finger bones in them, which were commonly used as sacrifices, some had strategically placed holes, used for incense and the release of spirits.  Lastly, we were brought to the sites of human remains, multiple skulls and one nearly fully intact human skeleton. Unfortunately due to inconsiderate travelers and tour guides, cameras are not allowed, as they have been the culprit of extensive damage to the sacred space.  As Meghan said, “This was probably the coolest thing I have ever done in my life.” I would have to agree; if you ever make it to San Ignacio, it is a must see, and worth the splurge, and best of all, it’s only a half day tour! Try to get there early however to beat the crowds, and if you’re lucky, you might even snag Ben Cruise for your guide!  

Cahal Pech

Cahal Pech

Much more zen than CDMX

Exploring Cahal Pech

MegHan and Pip

Nightly entertainment

Blind taste test… I couldn’t tell!

Family Dinners at Lower Dover

Budget AF

Caye Caulker, Belize...

“Go Slow…But Keep Moving,” is the motto of Belize, and for the most part the vibe of the entire country is just that; chill, laid back, and time is not of the essence… except when you need to make the boat taxi.  After another long bus ride from Tulum to the Mexico border town of Chetumal (including a new exit tax of 32 USD/pp), we eventually arrived at the Belize City bus station at 1730, which happens to be when the last boat taxi to the islands leaves. Oh well, Meghan and I had already resigned ourselves the fact that we would miss the boat and have to stay a night in the uneventful appearing town. However, as soon as we set foot off the bus, quickly gathered our packs, and mentioned the words “Caye Caulker,” we were quickly directed to a man who was eagerly awaiting passengers (for commission no doubt) and sternly directing us to, “Get in the van girls, we must go now if we want to try to make the boat!” Without a chance to even assess the situation, Meghan and I were in the van and having quite a wild ride! Now normally, when a man yells, “Get in the van!” our first reaction is generally, “No thanks!”  but this time we had to “trust the process” as I say and hopped right in!  What I’m sure is normally a 5 minute ride, turned into a two minute ride of being whipped around corners, honking horns, flying curse words, near collisions, and an abrupt stop in front of the taxi station being ushered into the boat taxi office and purchasing THE VERY LAST tickets.  An hour later we FINALLY stepped onto the island of Caye Caulker, 10 hours after leaving Tulum…ah travel days, I love them… I swear.

Arriving in Caye Caulker, the immediate vibe is much more vibrant than Tulum; bright colored wooden buildings, hammocks strung from tree to tree, the smell of fresh BBQ seafood in the air immediately making your mouth water, not to mention the beautiful blue waters surrounding the Island. Unfortunately, no amount of seafood or picturesque buildings can make up for the fact that you are constantly hounded to buy trinkets or take a taxi around an island that you can lap in 20 min. We stayed at Go Slow Hostel, which was near The Split, which is one of the few places you can go to escape the tourist trinket trail.  With intermittent working toilets, cold showers, strictly monitored AC that left us sweating in the night, and beds that made me fear for my safety when I made my ascent, it wasn’t our ideal spot. But guess what? We paid for three nights, so for 3 nights we made the best of it! So what did we do? Booked a snorkeling tour though our hostel, which was a small group: our guide, Meghan, our new friend Max, and me. We did a half day tour which turned out to be a great day of swimming with sting rays, nurse sharks, and spotting various tropical fish and even a sea turtle.  We also spent a couple days lounging around the “beach,” which is essentially a concrete slab dusted with white sand. Seeing how the island is pretty expensive (think $9 margaritas), we decided to throw our budget to the wind for the day and grabbed a table at the Lazy Lizard; beautiful views, decent drinks and food, and awesome lounge chairs for me to work on my sunburn.  By the end of our stay we had spent way too much on alcohol and food (we are now on a PB&J diet for a bit), met lovely people: Max from Arizona, Stan from Toronto, and Jasmine from Germany, and gained a new appreciation for the Island.  The locals are lovely and definitely know how to make a lady feel welcome, the grilled seafood amazing, and the nights spend watching the stars on the docks will not soon be forgotten. Alas, it was time for these Meg(h)ans to move inland to San Ignacio by the border of Guatemala, needless to say, our bank accounts were ready…

Colors of Caye Caulker

Lazy Lizard

Perfect place to catch a sunburn

Lazy Lizard

Fish Tacos and Fresh Salsa

Snorkeling

MegHan was once attacked by a pelican… not this one.

Snorkeling

Swimming with sharks

Note: Had we not been on such a budget, we would have flown over The Blue Hole, and had we had our diver certification, we would have done some diving.  Goal: Get PADI certified.

Why I LOVE Travel Days

For many travelers, the idea of spending an entire day on a bus when you could take a quick flight seems like a waste of time; but for me, the days spent traveling between destinations are some of my favorite. First off it’s EASY! With the right amount of research (usually dug up on some blog), travel days CAN BE (not always) very low stress and almost ALWAYS cheap. It’s essentially a day where nothing else is planned (money saver in itself!), and all you have to do is sit there…for hours…sometimes overnight…which in my book, is $aving on a hostel! If I can take an overnight bus somewhere, you better believe i’m on it…generally they are air-conditioned (truly a luxury), include some kind of snack/meal, and are cheaper or equivalent to a hostel… it’s a essentially a 2 for 1 deal!

Lately however, MegHan and I haven’t had much need for an overnight bus, which means we have the options of flying (too expensive), air-conditioned shuttles (still too expensive), or local buses…which is generally where we end up. I must say, navigating the local bus systems are a bit challenging, but at the same time that makes it an adventure! This is where the research comes in; my first choice is to find a blog from a traveler who has done the trip recently; they generally break it down step by step; and when you don’t speak the language, step by step directions are a LIFESAVER!

Travel days generally start EARLY; sometimes before the sun comes up, which if you know me, is a part of my personal nightmare. However, once you peel yourself out of your bunk and wipe the sleep from your eyes, the rest is easy, all you need are your directions, a cup of bitter hostel coffee (if you’re lucky), A LOT of patience, a fun travel partner (might even be yourself!), and an open mind…and maybe some sunscreen. Again, just to be clear, you need A LOT OF PATIENCE; bus stations tend to be disorganized; you may miss a bus, you may not have a seat on bus, and you are likely to not have AC (and if you see a bus pull up with the windows closed, get excited!). And let me tell you, when you have no AC, 88% humidity, and its 85 degrees outside, you will probably be thinking, “Why the fuck did I not spend the extra $15 for the AC shuttle?” And in this moment is when you need the patience and the ability to appreciate the fact that you have immersed yourself in the culture: aside from a hand full of backpackers like yourself, the rest of the people on the bus are locals. Locals going to or from work, kids coming home from school; and while you are sweating from what seems like very pore of your body, just remember that this is often a part of their daily routine, and for the most part they are HAPPY. They are not complaining, they are not sulking, they are not rushing, they are modeling the patience I know I can learn from…And thats about the time that I bust out my hand held fan and hope that it is able to take the edge off of my meltdown AKA “sweat down”.

Generally, getting from point A to point B is never a direct; it might require two buses, a water taxi, another bus, and a lovely walk to the hostel; which is why I say travel days are an adventure and a challenge, and usually much more rewarding. Did I also mention cheaper? For example, tomorrow, Meghan and I are traveling from Boquete, a mountain town, to Bocas del Toro. the beach. This will require two buses, a water taxi, and i’m sure a walk. We can take a nice AC shuttle from one hostel to the next for $30 each; however, if we take the local buses it will only cost about $15 each…which is about our nightly budget for hostels… you do the math. Sure it will take a couple extra hours, and a lot of sweat, but it will also be a great story! I’m sure we will struggle to explain in Spanish where we are going, but our ATTEMPT at the language will be enthusiastically appreciated; we will probably have a fun game of peek-a-boo with the baby sitting next to us, and perhaps we will develop a crush on the bus driver who’s multi-tasking skills (driving, changing money, directing traffic), for some reason is just plain, “HOT!” Perhaps along the way we may almost miss a bus requiring an adventurous taxi ride that makes us appreciate being alive…No matter what, traveling like a local, with the locals, experiencing the culture, and taking in the scenery a long the way are all experiences you are unlikely to get on an air-conditioned flight, which is why i LOVE travel days…and for a little cheese factor: Remember, “Its not the destination, it’s the journey.” The hot, sweaty, long journey…

Adios Mexico!

I’ve been vacationing SO hard (ya know… lounging around) that I don’t even know where I left off... Oh yes, the last couple of days in Mexico City… unfortunately were uneventful; Ramen, laundry and spray tans (BTW not easy to find…); thanks Metro Boutique Hostal for allowing Aloha Baby mobile tanning to come to us! Highly recommend both of these! Was the spray tan the best one i’ve ever had? No…BUT it was like the only one we could find in Mexico City and they technician was SO nice…and they have worked with Paris Hilton, so we are basically on her level…

Armed with a load of clean clothes and a couple streaky spray tans later, we arrived in Riviera Maya for the Crash My Playa (CMP) 5thyear fiesta. This was my third year going, and it did not disappoint! If you love country music and Mexico, then there is no better event for you… unlimited mediocre food (it is an all-inclusive after all), endless alcohol, pool parties with Dustin lynch and Luke Bryan, and of course 4 nights of amazing music; all on the beaches of Mexico. Tickets go on sale usually in April… You’re welcome!

After CMP commenced, a few days of R&R were in order; so we headed to Tulum for some relaxing days at the cenotes and a few too many margaritas at the beautiful Mezzanine hotel and restaurant with the most amazing beach views.  Just to clarify though, the hotel itself is way out of our budget, and the restaurant probably was too, but ya know, fancy hotel or 2 for 1 margaritas…it was a no brainer! So where did we stay? Hostel Sheck… in a 20+ bed mixed dorm; it did the trick and also came with a super cute pup for me! What more could I ask for? 

            Fresh juice or a smoothie maybe? Pizza? Tulum has all essentials for anyone really; budget lodging, luxury lodging, street food and fancy restaurants…packed full of plenty of tourists.  As we sipped on our margaritas at Mezzanine, we met a lovely couple from London; they were a wealth of information; not only did they recommend a spot for next year instead of Tulum, but also gave us our first Belizan currency! Thank Sonny and Mira! A few too many margs and another lovely political discussion over The Wall,  it was time for these travelers to again hit the road! Unfortunately for Tulum, I don’t think we will be back, there’s just too much of this big world to see…like Belize for instance…

From Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende....and not much in between

Disclaimer: Currently posted up at a lovely bar enjoying the play off games and my 4th, soon to be 5th margarita. Please forgive my typos and grammar…seriously, save it for a time when I might care…

So it turns out the Mexico City subway system isn’t much of an adventure at all…which quite frankly is a good thing! It’s SUPER cheap (I’m talking 30 cents) and takes you to wherever you want to go! It’s not like the various systems in the US where the further you go the more you pay; no, its a flat fee, and its cheap, safe, and FAST. Trains come every 2 min and there is a special section for women and children only, plus free wifi! You literally can get anywhere in the city for 30 cents and faster than driving… like I said, traffic and congestion in CDMX is cray.

We took the subway to the bus station and hopped on a bus to Teotihuacan, which is a conglomeration and sorts of pyramids from the 150-200 AD period used for politicians, priests and social gatherings. Had we hired a guide for $25 each we would know everything about the historical site, but alas, we were/are too cheap! We walked around, read the historical facts, climbed the hundreds of steps to the top of the Pyramide del Sol and took in the fantastically dry and smoggy view; which was impressive and unimpressive all at the same time. I can appreciate the tact, skill, and manpower that must have required sans machines and knowledge we have now, but it is still unfortunate that such an incredible site is tarnished by the pollution of modern society. Either way, it was a place that had we not visited, we would have been scoffed at travelers and tourists alike… and for a mere $10 for the two of us!

As we arrived back to CDMX, we decided to head to the biggest park in the city, which houses museums, lakes, and a zoo (you know I didn’t visit, thats a WHOLE other blog). We wandered, decided to splurge $4 on the Archeological museum, and of course we got into some banter about creation vs evolution, and ultimately decided to just focus on the stone carvings in front of us. About 8 miles and a blister later, we headed back to our hostel and packed up for our morning trip to San Miguel de Allende…another subway and bus trip awaited us; but this time we had our back packs with is, and of course Meghan’s trusty blister.

Like I said, Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende has nothing in between, and honestly had I woke up mid bus ride, I could have easily mistaken the scenery for Central California, reminiscent of my Modestan roots! However, arriving to San Miguel de Allende you are greeted by the old churches, cobble stone streets, and colorful buildings. But before we could indulge in the quaint vibes of SMdA (this is my own lazy abbreviation), we first had to hop on the local city bus which was jam packed like sardines and accompanied by a delightful mariachi band with a side of screaming children (quieted by a piece of candy… am I still in America?). With the help of a couple local passengers we disembarked and headed down a quiet street lined with colorful buildings, souvenir shops, and restaurants with picturesque door ways. My thought: “I can get down with this.; cute place, causal, drinks, and hopefully good food.” This is exactly what we have found in SMdA; minus the cheap and desperately missed prices of CDMX. Literally I might as well be in any city in the US, which makes sense; SMdA is a destination which apparently attracts retirees from US, Europe, and Canada. Let me tell you, today Meghan and I ventured to a spot recommended by a friend who had visited recently for a wedding, upon arrival to this lovely rooftop tapas bar, we quickly realized we had ventured past our budget. Seems like SMdA may be divided into two areas; backpacker/locals vs old white money, and while MegHan and I may be white, we lack money and age. Needless to say we detoured to the nearest bar with tacos and proceeded to drown our penniless souls with tequila.

Which brings us to the now; holed up in a deliciously quaint, aesthetically pleasing bar, Sirena Gorda; colorfully capturing the vibe of SMdA; beautiful, quaint, relaxing, with a side of bouge; essentially right up my alley. Tomorrow we depart this little slice of retired America and head back to CDMX before heading to Riviera Maya for Crash My Playa. Until then, I will enjoy my strolls through the cobble stone, picturesque, and cozy town; I know I will soon be greeted by cheap and delicious food served in a haze of unhealthy air quality (index 155 FYI) known as CDMX. Interestingly enough, I’m kinda looking forward to getting back to the grime of a big city… or is it being on the move… or the spray tan calling my name? Who knows, but I’m excited…

Update: Met some Californian’s and ended up in a strange and irrelevant debate about who came from a shittier place in California: Modesto VS Bakersfield VS Antelope Valley… Who am I? Why did I just degrade myself? Must be the shot of tequila…